A Pena to Olveiroa, 16.63 miles
I woke feeling both excited and worried about the day ahead. I'm putting in big miles these last few days and getting tired. Excited because I'm almost completely done.
I walked almost the entire day by myself. The Camino Finisterre is different from anything before. So few people walking now. As long as I can see someone in front of me, regardless of the distance, as well as someone behind me, I feel perfectly safe. But it's also the reason for walking solo—there really isn't anyone to talk to.
The infrastructure on this Camino is much different. Extremely few bars to stop at and get a snack or use the restroom. Very few albergues along the way. The towns and villages are much smaller. You walk through rolling green hills, patches of forest, and small farming communities where cows may be grazing just a few feet away from the trail.
There are long stretches of eucalyptus and pine trees, narrow country roads, stone walls, and little villages with granite homes that can feel unchanged for generations. The terrain tends to rise and fall rather than give you huge mountain climbs. There are moments the route opens into broad views of valleys and farmland, and then closes again into shaded wooded paths.
Today, all of this serene countryside gave me a huge sense of peace. I felt light and happy and carefree as I walked. I immersed myself in the nature around me—the chirping birds, an area with frogs who serenaded me with their croaking, the sun shining brightly. It was an easy walk on those rolling hills. It could not have been a better day.
There are several people I know staying at the same albergue tonight. We gathered on the outdoor patio and shared stories and thoughts about what it means to be coming to the end. Lots of conversation and laughter. I'm sure the tears will come later.
Tomorrow is a 20 mile walk into Finisterre. I was considering taking a taxi halfway just to get there earlier, but everyone out on the patio talked me out of it. After all, it is the very last day of walking. And I have two nights booked in Finisterre so I should have time to do what I want to do there.
Overall, Santiago felt like an ending, but walking to Finisterre feels more like a continuation—quieter, more reflective, less about arriving and more about taking everything in.
I can't believe this journey is coming to an end.
Buen Camino
