4 min read

O'Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 18.29 miles

O'Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 18.29 miles

I woke up very early, excited for the day and wanting to get started so I'd have plenty of time to explore Santiago. As I left the albergue this morning, a couple that I'd talked to on and off pretty much the whole trip were just leaving as well. Neither of us knew the other was staying in the same place, so we went and had a quick breakfast together and were then on our way... in the pouring rain.

Rainy Camino road near Santiago
Rainy Camino road near Santiago

We didn't walk together but just kept leapfrogging all day. Other than it being very wet today, the walk wasn't particularly bad.

Pilgrim at stone scallop shell marker approaching Santiago
Pilgrim at stone scallop shell marker approaching Santiago

I arrived in Santiago about 11:00, but as usual with these big cities (100,000 population) it takes quite some time to get through the urbanized area to the original, historic part of the city—the part with the narrow alleyways lined with homes, cobblestone streets, small cafes, town squares and churches... and what a church.

First view of Santiago Cathedral facade
First view of Santiago Cathedral facade

The Santiago de Compostela Archcathedral Basilica. Original construction took place in 1085 and it is world-famous because it holds the reputed burial place of Saint James the Great, one of the original apostles of Jesus Christ. It is one of only a handful of churches globally built directly over an apostle's tomb.

Victorious arrival at Santiago Cathedral with hiking poles
Victorious arrival at Santiago Cathedral with hiking poles

Before I explored the area, I went straight to the Pilgrims Office to get my Compostela. It turned out to be a very simple and quick process and I am now an official Pilgrim of the Camino de Santiago.

After that, I checked into my hotel (yes... hotel, not Albergue) and deposited my daypack and hiking poles and set out to explore and eat. I am about 0.2 miles from the Church and everything surrounding it, so very well located. Apparently the Church has Mass four times a day but is open to the public when Mass is not taking place, which I took advantage of.

First of all, the Church is massive. The focal point of the entire interior is an absolute explosion of gold.

Botafumeiro hanging in Santiago Cathedral interior
Botafumeiro hanging in Santiago Cathedral interior
Santiago Cathedral's golden baroque altarpiece
Santiago Cathedral's golden baroque altarpiece
Golden altar of Santiago Cathedral
Golden altar of Santiago Cathedral

There are two massive, intricately carved pipe organs dating back to the early 1700s, covered in gold leaf and celestial figures. You see the Botafumeiro hanging from the ceiling.

Botafumeiro suspended from cathedral ceiling
Botafumeiro suspended from cathedral ceiling

Directly beneath that golden altar, visitors walk down into a small, quiet, stone-walled underground crypt to view the silver reliquary box containing the apostle's remains. It all is incredibly impressive and beautiful. I spent quite a bit of time inside the Church amazed and in awe of everything I was seeing.

I will remember this day forever. Did I mention that I actually cried when the man handed my Compostela to me? I'm pretty sure he thought I was crazy.

Happy pilgrim in Santiago hotel room
Happy pilgrim in Santiago hotel room

After spending hours in the central square, I decided it was time to eat so I found a little place, ordered my food and ended up sitting with a lady from the East Coast and we talked for about an hour while having our lunch.

And, finally, as if my day couldn't get any better, I had an hour massage in my hotel.

Tomorrow the crowds will be thinned as fewer than 10-15% continue past Santiago. The stages are also longer though, so a lot of miles to be walked in the next few days.

Buen Camino

Statue of Templar Knight on Santiago approach
Statue of Templar Knight on Santiago approach
Historic fountain in Santiago old town
Historic fountain in Santiago old town
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral complete facade
Santiago de Compostela Cathedral complete facade
Km-0 Camino marker in Santiago
Km-0 Camino marker in Santiago