3 min read

Olveiroa to Finisterre, 20.6 miles

Olveiroa to Finisterre, 20.6 miles

I knew it was going to be a very long day, so I left before the sun was up at 6:45. I stopped for a quick breakfast at the first bar I saw, about an hour into my walk. As I'm sitting at my table eating, Eddie comes up the path—a nice surprise. I'm sure it was a "Camino provides" thing because I had such a long day ahead and having company was going to make it so much easier.

Wooded Camino path with ferns toward coast
Wooded Camino path with ferns toward coast

Eddie and I have the same sense of humor and a lot in common, so the banter between us is fun and never ending. We walked for a good 4 hours together until we got to the town of Cee, where Eddie was spending the night. We had a nice lunch together and said our goodbyes as I still had another 4 hours to go.

Lunch salad in Cee before final push
Lunch salad in Cee before final push

I was alone the rest of the day except for two very nice men who I have seen off and on for weeks (except I don't know their names but they know mine), so we'd walk together for little bits at a time. The path today was the same rolling hills I've had ever since leaving Santiago—nothing too hard but still challenging. The weather was okay, warm enough but just kind of grey all day unlike the past few beautifully sunny days.

Eucalyptus forest path between Olveiroa and coast
Eucalyptus forest path between Olveiroa and coast

Coming into Finisterre was something else. At this point you've been walking for nearly 8 hours and you crest a hill and out of nowhere, with no warning, is this incredible expanse of ocean. I understand now why the original Pilgrims thought it was "the end of the world." It did feel like the land ended so abruptly and all you could see was water. It was awe inspiring and actually brought a few tears to my eyes imagining what the Pilgrims must have thought—how frightening it must have been that they had come to the end of the world as they knew it.

First glimpse of Finisterre through pine trees
First glimpse of Finisterre through pine trees

For so many days my Camino had been about following yellow arrows, reaching the next town, and putting one foot in front of the other. But arriving here felt different. Santiago felt like an ending. Finisterre feels more like a continuation. It doesn't feel like an ending at all. It feels quiet. Reflective. Like a place to sit with everything the Camino has given me.

Finisterre harbor with fishing boats and town
Finisterre harbor with fishing boats and town

I'm not racing toward anything now. I'm just taking it all in—the sound of the ocean, the slower pace, and the feeling that some journeys keep going even after you arrive.

Tomorrow I am going to take a bus to Muxia and spend the day there exploring. Tomorrow night Eddie and I are having a farewell dinner in Finisterre. I still need to walk the 2 miles to the Finisterre Lighthouse which apparently is a "must do." So a busy day tomorrow and then start the trip to Madrid Sunday in order to fly home Monday.

Buen Camino!

Coastal houses near Finisterre with ocean views
Coastal houses near Finisterre with ocean views
Atlantic coastline view near Finisterre
Atlantic coastline view near Finisterre
Sandy beach approaching Finisterre's end of world
Sandy beach approaching Finisterre's end of world
Igreja de Santa María das Areas in Finisterre
Igreja de Santa María das Areas in Finisterre
View over Finisterre town from hillside approach
View over Finisterre town from hillside approach
Stone church ruins along coastal Camino route
Stone church ruins along coastal Camino route