Foncebadón to Molinaseca, 15 miles
Today was very hard for many reasons. Not necessarily a bad day, just very challenging.
I woke up to rain, and I'm pretty sure it rained all night. We all put our ponchos on before we even stepped foot outside. It was 39 degrees when I started about 7:30. My shoes were still very wet from the rain the day before. Of course, I stayed in an Albergue that night that did not have a hair dryer in the bathroom—an anomaly—so had no way to dry them. At least I had dry socks.
The route immediately started uphill and was very rocky. Once again we were trying to dodge puddles and mud.
Two kilometers outside of town was the Cruz de Ferro. I knew it was coming up so I was prepared. It is a simple iron cross located at the highest point of the Camino, originally placed in the 11th century. It is one of the most iconic, spiritual, and emotional high-altitude landmarks on the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. This is a site where pilgrims leave stones—sometimes from home, other times a rock found on the Camino. The placement of stones can represent a release of sins, fears, or emotional burdens. Or the rock can be placed in honor of a loved one you have lost or even as a wish for a good life for someone.
In my case, I have carried a rock that belonged to my brother, Brian, this whole time on the Camino just waiting to place it at the Cruz de Ferro in his honor. It was very emotional for me. I cried thinking of Brian and how he would have loved the Camino. I talked to Brian. A nice man, a total stranger, put his arm around me in comfort. He was crying as well.
I also placed rocks that my grandchildren had painted with the intention of wishing them a happy, healthy, and good life. I lingered for quite awhile, wanting the moment to last.
After that the walking began again. We all still had our ponchos on although it was no longer raining but looked like it could start any time. Since the Cruz de Ferro is the highest point of the Camino it was all walking downhill after that. But what a downhill it was—if I walked 15 miles today, 14 of it was on a very steep, very rocky, very muddy descent.
I normally think of myself as a fit, active older woman. But now I felt like a fragile little old lady placing every single step with caution, looking at the ground the entire day—and there was gorgeous scenery to look at—placing my poles very carefully with each step, afraid of slipping in the mud and afraid of tripping on a rock. I felt like every mile took at least an hour. I don't think it did but it sure felt like that's how slow I was going. My shoes were completely soaked through. The trail was narrow and there were times you had no choice but to step in a puddle. And then you get passed by the young people who don't have a care in the world, no sticks, no fear. I am happy to report that I made it down in one piece though.
I did just copy this from Google: "The route from Foncebadón to Molinaseca is approximately 20 kilometers (12.5 miles) long and is famous for being one of the most scenic but physically demanding descents on the entire Camino."
It did continue to rain on and off all day.
I am now in another very nice Albergue, with a hair dryer so I can dry my shoes. I signed up for the pilgrims dinner at 7:00 which is Brazilian themed. You definitely work up an appetite on the Camino so I am very much looking forward to dinner and then a good nights sleep.
Buen Camino
