Frómista to Carrión de los Condes, 12 miles

A good night's sleep in Frómista meant an early start at seven, fleece jacket over my shirt for the first hour until the morning chill burned off. The sky stayed clear — no rain worries today — and the walk ahead was simple. Twelve miles across the completely flat Meseta, passing through only two tiny towns. The first had exactly two streets and no bars. The second managed one bar, but I didn't stop.

Water strategy matters out here. The Meseta offers few fountains, and I didn't see any today at all. You carry what you need or you go thirsty.

The pilgrim rhythm has changed. We're stretched out now — I can always see at least one walker ahead and one behind, but no clumps, no need to pass anyone. I walked alone most of the route until I came across Angelo from Roma.

I need to apologize for my earlier post — I think I gave the wrong name when I mentioned him before, but he is Angelo. Poor Angelo is having foot problems, and I found him sitting under a tree with his shoes and socks off, rubbing his feet. I stopped for a bit, but he insisted I continue walking. He caught up eventually and we had another fun, hand-gesturing conversation. We use Google Translate sometimes, but that takes the fun out of it.

His ankle looked very swollen. I gave him some ibuprofen and told him to try to get ice. When we reached town we parted ways — what girl can resist the double cheek kiss Europeans give.

I had big plans for Carrión de los Condes. First on the list: buy a new hat. Second: tour the significant museums and church this town offers.

Turns out it's a national holiday in Spain, equivalent to our Labor Day. Everything is closed.

Nevertheless, I walked all around town and took plenty of pictures of the outside of buildings. I'll wait to leave until eight tomorrow morning so I can get that much-needed hat.

Stay tuned for a second post today on a different topic.

Buen Camino