Logroño to Nájera: 18 Miles Through Rioja

I met Onno at seven this morning in front of a very large church in the town square.

Eighteen miles later, we reached Nájera at three-thirty—eight and a half hours of walking through what turned out to be the flattest day I've had so far.

The route took us through Rioja wine country, small towns and villages connected by paths lined with vineyards. If I haven't mentioned it before, vineyards have been prevalent on every day of the Camino so far, but today we were properly in the heart of wine territory.

Today brought my first rain. Fortunately I'd remembered to pack my rain poncho in my daypack because I definitely needed it. As soon as the drops started, we all scrambled to get our rain gear on—a chaotic scene since none of us had actually used the stuff before.

It rained for about an hour, then passed. The coolest day since I started, but a nice respite from the heat.

I don't think I've talked about the "Bars" yet. As you walk, you come upon many small villages with a Bar, and just about every pilgrim stops when you encounter one. These aren't bars as we know them—no alcohol served, but coffee and orange juice and pastries and delicious snacks. Everyone stops, takes off their backpacks, and sits and socializes for a while. If you're very lucky, they may have an actual bathroom. We stopped at three today. It's a nice way to break up the walk.

Nothing too dramatic about the walk itself, but lots of good conversation. The days are long and tiring but also gratifying. It's seven-twenty-three as I write this and I'm ready for bed. Tomorrow I'm meeting Elín at eight and will walk with her to start.