Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, 12.8 miles

My best day so far. I started walking with Elín at 8am, and I just really like this woman. We have so much in common in how we see the world, our demeanors are similar, and she's not afraid to tell me when she needs alone time. Works perfectly for me.

We walked for a few hours together, then sat at a bar for about half an hour for a snack and coffee before going our separate ways. I walked solo for a while and came upon Mary, the dermatologist from Carmel who was one of my roommates a few nights ago. We walked for a few more hours, then sat at another bar along the way before splitting up again.

The perfect balance of conversation and alone time. I find I'm no longer anxious about taking time to just sit and relax for half an hour at these bars. In the beginning I just wanted to get to the next stop as fast as possible. I'm learning there's no reason to rush on the Camino.

My standard order at these places is tortilla — thinly sliced potatoes mixed with egg — and a Coke. I never drink soda, but for some reason it tastes like the best thing in the world to me right now. It's my third Coke since starting the Camino, but not only that, I've had three glasses of wine. Not all at once, and it's white wine, but everyone drinks wine here so when in Rome.

It was an easy walk today and I'm not exhausted for the first time since starting. My mind and body are getting used to it. My shoulder no longer hurts, so I'm happy.

The routine each day is get up, pack your backpack and start walking. Hopefully you've visited a mercado the night before so you have snacks for breakfast, or your lodging provides breakfast, but I'm finding that's not necessarily the norm. Then you walk, stop at a bar, walk some more, stop at a bar, and do this over and over until you get to your next destination.

The first thing you do after finding your lodging — always a challenge — is check in, find your room and take your shoes off. Relax for a bit, then you need to wash your clothes, which can be tricky. Two of the places I've stayed had a washing machine and provided a clothesline and clothespins, or you lay them anywhere you can find for them to dry. There's also the bathroom sink and even the shower that you can wash them in. I'm getting very good at this actually. But you need to do your wash as soon as you get to your room for the night or it won't be dry in the morning. There's always the option of pinning them to your backpack the next morning and letting them air dry as you walk.

Next comes your own shower, which is the best thing in the world at that point. Then it's time to find food. Maybe you see people you know and eat with them or maybe you eat alone. Anything goes and neither is bad or good, just whatever you're in the mood for. For many people the Camino is truly about introspection and being alone. Then you may walk around town for a bit or go back to your room, again whatever you are in the mood for. I do think all pilgrims are passed out by 9pm though.

And then you get up the next morning and do it all again. A very simple life.