Sarria to Portomarín, 13.81 miles
Rain greeted me as I stepped out of my wonderful albergue this morning. Poncho on right away, and it stayed on until I reached Portomarín. Fortunately, two dry days meant the trail wasn't muddy. Still, a horde of pilgrims was starting out at the same time—which I'd suspected would be the case—so I opted for an alternative route once again.
I knew the new pilgrims wouldn't know there were options, just like I didn't in the beginning. The alternative route proved the better choice today. Gentle rolling hills on either paved or semi-rocky dirt trails, with enough pilgrims that I felt safe, yet not so many that I was constantly going around them.
Once again, I questioned my accommodation choice before arriving. It wasn't in the heart of town but a mile outside of it. When I finally arrived, it turned out to be the most beautiful place I've stayed since starting. Right on the Miño River—a very large and beautiful river that runs through Portomarín.
It's an idyllic setting. The staff here are extremely welcoming and helpful, they grow much of their own food, and I have my own individual cabin. I can hardly wait to see what dinner will be like. I'm sure it will be delicious.
Today I realized I haven't talked about the third emotional stage of the Camino, which I'm definitely in right now. The third and final stage is "The Spiritual" or "The Heart" stage. Reaching this phase means your body has adapted to the daily physical strain and your mind has quieted its inner noise, allowing you to focus deeply on your emotions, connection to nature, and personal growth.
Phase one—my body has adapted. Phase two—my mind is calm. And now phase three.
My mind is working in different ways now. I'm noticing every little thing around me. Nature here is beautiful and peaceful and calming. I'm hearing the chirping birds outside as I sit in my room. There is no sense of time. I don't know if I've been walking one hour or four hours and it just doesn't matter. I have no idea of how many miles I've walked.
What I do think about are the things that are truly important: My family. I am so grateful for my children, Justin and Katie and Dan, for always welcoming me into their homes and hearts. I am grateful for all of my grandchildren: Emily, Reese, Elle, Finn, Hayes, Dash and baby girl to come. They all bring so much joy into my life and I feel like the luckiest Gigi in the world to be able to see them anytime I want and to interact with at least one of them on a daily basis. I am grateful to my brother Mark for never stopping calling me, and to Carolyn who I can always talk to about my brother Brian.
I also have the most wonderful, caring, helpful, good-hearted friends, and I love you all. Thank you for always being there for me when I need a shoulder to cry on and always supporting me.
I will end with this: I am truly happy and at peace.
Buen Camino.
